My pool is losing water
There are two ways in which a pool can lose water
Click for more...
Close your own pool
Water Chemistry: Take a sample of pool water one
week before you close the pool to Savile Pool and
Spa for testing Click for more...
My pool has low water flow
Low flow is an issue with the circulation system
that requires attention Click for
more...
My pump isn't working properly
When a pump is running normally (primed) the strainer
basket is completely filled with water Click
for more...
My gas heater will not
fire
Gas powered (and electric heaters for that matter)
heaters operate on a pressure switch and will not
fire unless there is sufficient water flow Click
for more...
There is water behind my
liner
There are two possible sources of water behind a
liner: ground water, or a leak Click
for more...
My liner is coming out
of its track
Liners coming out of their track is a common problem,
especially in the spring, and can often be easily
remedied Click for more...
Pucks are not breaking
down in my chemical feeder
If pucks are not breaking down in your feeder, you
should verify that there isn't an air lock Click
for more...
My pool
is losing water
There are two ways in which a pool can lose water.
The first is through normal operation, evaporation
and bather use. The second is due to a leak.
Water loss by normal use can be reduced. Normal
operation would be expected to lose upwards of an
inch of water a week (expect greater evaporation
rates with high water temperature, or devices like
fountains or waterfalls). Covering a pool during
the evening and at night (when the difference between
the water temperature and the air temperature is
the greatest) will slow evaporation significantly.
(Note: it is not advisable to cover a pool during
the day as it increases the risk of algae growth.)
Daytime evaporation can be prevented with a liquid
solar blanket. It forms a one molecule thick invisible
layer that prevents evaporation. Aside from water
loss, evaporation is also the largest cause of heat
loss. Using a liquid solar blanket and pool cover
will help to maintain a comfortable bathing temperature
and reduce the cost of running a gas or electric
heater or a heat pump.
Significant water loss (an inch
or more a day) can likely be attributed to a leak.
There are two possible sources: a leak in the pressure
side of the circulation system (a leak in the suction
side allows air to enter the system, not water loss),
or a leak in the structure of the pool (vinyl liner,
main drain, walk-in steps, skimmer and return faceplates).
To determine the cause of a leak you should use
the on/off test before making arrangements for a
repair or attempting a repair:
Top water up to its regular level
and mark the top of the water level on your skimmer
faceplate with a pencil.
2. Run the system for 24 hours. Measure the amount
of water lost, and top the pool back up to your
pencil mark.
3. Shut the system off for 24 hours and measure
the amount of water lost.
If the pool loses water in both
cases then there is most likely a leak in the structure
of the pool. Savile Pool and Spa provides under
water leak detection and repair services. If you
can easily identify the location of the leak, we
also sell patch kits for underwater repairs.
If the pool loses water only while running then
there is likely a leak in the circulation system.
Savile Pool and Spa provides pressure testing services
for underground lines, and replumbing services.
Identifying the source of a leak will reduce the
time needed to locate and repair a leak and ultimately
save you money.
Close your own pool
Water Chemistry: Take a sample of pool water one
week before you close the pool to Savile Pool and
Spa for testing. The pH and alkalinity should be
adjusted to slightly higher than normal at that
time.
Solar Blanket: Clean and remove
the solar blanket. If it is on a solar roller, leave
it on the roller and wrap it tightly with a plastic
sheet to prevent mice from nesting over the winter.
Shocking: Shock the pool 24 hours
prior to closing.
Lowering the Water Level: Lower
the water using your vacuum hose (set the filter
on waste). Keep the skimmer full of water to hold
the prime while you lower the water below the skimmer.
If you use your vacuum hose to lower the water,
give the pool one final vacuum, then backwash. Using
a submersible pump to lower the water is faster
and easier. In a concrete pool, the water should
go down below the jets. In a vinyl-lined pool, the
water should be just below the skimmer.
Misc. Equipment: Remove ladders,
railings and diving boards. Disconnect pool lights
and allow them to sink below winter ice level or
bring them up onto the deck and wrap them up. Remove
skimmer baskets, weir doors, and outlet eyeballs.
Winterize Your Equipment
Pump – Remove 2 plugs.
Filter – Remove pressure
guage(s), take them inside for the winter. Place
the dial valve handle in between any two positions.
Remove bottom plug or cap and make sure that all
the water drains out of the filter.
Heater – Turn off gas. Remove
plugs found on either side. Disconnect pressure
switch inside door. Open any taps if present.
Heat Pump – Disconnect both
hoses and tilt 15 degrees to ensure draining.
Chlorinator/Brominator –
Remove any remaining chemicals and place in a sealed
bag. Remove any plugs- Disconnect
any supply lines (if feeder is an online feeder).
Valves – Open any valves.
Piping – Disconnect any piping
that appears to collect water.
Add Winterizing Chemicals
– Add 1 L 4LG, 1 L of M.S.R., 1 kg of Shockite
Drain and Seal Pool Lines
– Use plastic plugs in the returns with Teflon
tape to seal. Use rubber expandable plugs in skimmer
for easy removal in the spring. Use a Gizzmo or
similar device to absorb the pressure of the ice
in the skimmer.
Blowing Lines with a Shop
Vac (Blowing Style)
1. Lower water just below skimmer (vinyl pool) or
18” below coping (concrete pool).
2. Disconnect backwash hose.
3. Attach blower hose to same fitting.
4. Put dial valve handle between any 2 positions.
5. Turn on blower.
6. As air rushes out return jets, cap with a threaded
plug.
7. If air comes out 1 jet, cap it and the will water
will come out the other. If air only comes out skimmer,
plug it to force air out jets.
8. After jets are sealed, suck out water from skimmer
(if any water is left) using the vacuum hose of
the shop vac.
Install the Winter Cover –
Allow the cover to ‘float’ on the water
and come straight up the pool wall and up on the
deck. The cover acts as a separator and cannot hold
the weight of the snow and ice. If the cover is
stretched until taught across the pool, the snow
and ice will pull the cover in.
Water Bags: Lay the waterbags end
to end around the perimeter of the pool to properly
seal the pool from the wind. Only fill the waterbags
half full or approximately 2” thick. This
will help prevent damage to the bags from the expansion
of the ice. If the pool is in a windy area, lay
bags across the corners of the cover. This will
keep the cover from billowing up
.
My pool
has low water flow
Low flow is an issue with the circulation system
that requires attention. Circulation and filtration
are the most essential parts of maintaining clear
and safe water. There are many possible causes of
low flow.
Let's first consider possible problems
with the pump. A pump will not function properly
if it is not fully primed. This means that the strainer
area should be completely filled with water. The
other possibility is a clogged impeller. The impeller
is attached to the shaft of the motor and forces
water to flow. If any debris passes by the strainer
basket, it can clog the impeller and prevent it
from pumping water properly. This is a common problem
in areas where pebbles, grass, twigs, pine needles
etc. are introduced to the pool. Depending on the
make and model of pump, it may need to be disassembled
to access the impeller. The final possibly in an
issue with the electric motor portion of the pump.
Savile Pool and Spa services all makes and models
of electric pool and spa pumps. We have facilities
to test and repair pool and spa motors at the store.
Now consider the possibility of
an obstruction elsewhere in the circulation system.
This could be as simple as debris in the skimmer
basket, the pump strainer basket of the filter.
All baskets should be checked and emptied on a regular
basis. Sand filters should be backwashed regularly.
The filter will have a resting pressure (the reading
on the pressure gauge immediately after backwashing).
When the pressure rises by 5-10 psi from the resting
pressure, the filter is full and needs to be backwashed
for 3-5 minutes and rinsed for 30-45 seconds. Cartridge
filters need to be rinsed with a hose on a regular
basis. Sand filters should be chemically cleaned
once a season, cartridge filters at least twice.
Another possibility is an unexpected obstruction
in pipes, most likely in the suction side of the
system. This sort of debris is often introduced
while vacuuming or through an automatic cleaner.
A hand vacuum or suction side automatic cleaner
should be used with an inline leaf trap to prevent
this from happening. Savile Pool and Spa uses high-pressure
air to force obstructions out of underground lines.
If these two problems have been
eliminated and flow is still not sufficient, it
can be increased by operating the pool with all
suction and return lines open, changing return fittings,
or in extreme cases replumbing or replacing equipment.
.
My pump isn't working
properly
When a pump is running normally (primed) the strainer
basket is completely filled with water. It will
make a quiet, consistent noise from water flowing.
The motor will likely be quite hot while running.
Modern electric motors will shut off before causing
any damage to the pump. You should turn off your
pump and allow it to cool before attempting any
service.
If a pump is primed and moving
water, but making unusual noise it could be an issue
with the motor, or the bearings in the motor. A
leak in the pump's shaft seal will allow water to
enter the motor causing damage. This type of problem
should be diagnosed and repaired by a professional
service technician. Savile Pool and Spa repairs
all makes and models of pool and spa pumps.
A pump that is not priming could
be related to several issues. If the pipe leading
from the skimmer to the pump is filled with air,
a pump will not start properly. As a temporary solution
you can add water the pump strainer with a garden
hose. Once the strainer area is filled with water
the pump should start. If the lid on the strainer
isn't sealed properly, water will continue to drain
back into the pool. Ensure the lid is intact and
the gasket or o-ring is intact and seating well.
As a permanent solution a valve can be installed
before the pump to prevent water from draining.
If the strainer fills and holds water, but does
not pump water, it is likely a clogged or damaged
impeller. The impeller is attached directly the
shaft of the motor. Any obstruction or damage will
prevent the pump from moving water. Depending on
the make and model of pump you may need to disassemble
the wet end of the pump to check and clean this
area. You should be able to spin the shaft by hand
by turning the impeller. If the shaft will not turn,
the pump needs to be serviced.
My gas heater will not
fire
Gas powered (and electric heaters for that matter)
heaters operate on a pressure switch and will not
fire unless there is sufficient water flow. This
it to prevent damage to the heater and surrounding
plumbing, and to prevent fire. If your heater is
not firing,
consult the "Low Flow"
tips section before considering any service.
Gas heaters must be serviced by
a licensed gas fitter. Savile Pools works with several
gas fitters regularly and can recommend experienced
pool heater service technicians.
There is water behind
my liner
There are two possible sources of water behind a
liner: ground water, or a leak. Ground water is
a common occurrence in the spring, and in certain
areas of town. If you have opened your pool and
haven't topped up the water, do so. Often the added
weight will force the ground water back into the
ground, and the liner will return to its normal
position. If the water does not return to the ground,
Savile Pool and Spa uses special pumps to remove
water from behind the liner (this can also be accomplished
using your pool pump and a flexible hose). Aside
from the spring ground water, water behind liners
can also be caused by a leak. The leak must be patched
before the water can be pumped effectively. Savile
Pools offers underwater leak detection and repair
services.
My liner
is coming out of its track
Liners coming out of their track is a common problem,
especially in the spring, and can often be easily
remedied. If a small section of liner is coming
out of the track:
Do not raise the water level until the liner is
put back in place.
Apply boiling water to the area
underneath the bead (the part that sits in the track)
to soften the vinyl.
3. Stretch the liner up and force
it back into the track.
4. Splash pool water on area to
cool it back down.
For persistent problem areas, t-bead
liner lock can be wedged into the same track as
the liner bead to hold the liner in place.
Savile Pools recommends that we
repair serious problems such as large areas out
of the track or old, difficult to stretch vinyl.
Pucks are not breaking
down in my chemical feeder
If pucks are not breaking down in your feeder, you
should verify that there isn't an air lock. If the
pucks are dry when you open your chemical feeder,
you should consult Savile Pool and Spa on how to
resolve an air lock. The other possibility is that
water is unable to flow through the feeder for one
of several reasons. Residue from chemicals can build
up and need to be removed. DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICALS
TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF A CHEMICAL FEEDER. Offline
feeders have a check valve on the outlet fitting.
If the check valve is installed on the inlet, no
water will pass through the feeder. Verify that
is it installed correctly. If these problems have
been resolved and pucks are still not dissolving,
there may be an issue with the overall rate of water
flow in the circulation system. Consult the "Low
Flow" tips section.
.
